Rome: the Roman Forum

Rome is Rome. 

My grandparents, mother, younger brother, and aunt Carol came to stay with me for a week in the Spring (along with Autumn, the best time to travel) when I lived there. I did my best to show them this rich city without hassle, commotion, or stress and now I am passing those tips on to you.  

This blog is the first of a three-part series, dedicated to my favorite tourist sites in Rome, without the traps of tourism.

Grandma hopping a fence in Rome

Part I: Attractions Without Tourism.

Rome can be overwhelming.  The crowds push you from one major attraction to the next, while you try to take in the beauty and significance of each site during the fifteen seconds you have a the front of the mob before it shuffles you away.  

While these sites (such as the Fontana di Trevi, the Colosseum, and the Pantheon) are all worth seeing, make sure that you escape the herds, and see the Rome that most tourists never bothered to learn about; the Rome that art, history, and time has held so dear.  

Below, is a short list of some of the most important sites in Rome, with the fewest crowds.

Looking on the Forum

The Forum.  

Metro Line A; Vittorio Emanuele

This is the Ancient Rome of Julius Caesar, Cicero and Ovid.  Most people walk by it, briefly appreciate its antiqued beauty, and then walk on, but do take a moment to appreciate its significance.  The Roman Forum is recognized by its random temples, its free-floating columns, and the tuff (tufo, in Italian) cliffs it lyes under, the soft volcanic rock which shaped this city.  It is free to enter the Forum, and makes for a very nice walk through the city, off of the crowded streets.

Interesting Story: These particular cliffs are the Tarpeian Rocks, an ancient execution site for traitors named after the vestal virgin, Tarpeia, who let the notorious Sabines in through the city gates after they promised to give her, "what was on their arms."  She had been eying up their jewelry but they fulfilled their part of the deal by beating her almost to death with their shields and armor.  Tarpeia survived the beating only to be thrown from the cliff as the first Roman traitor executed in that manor.

Tarpeian Cliffs

Temple in the Forum

For the best visual impact, approach the Forum by walking up the Cordonata Steps of the Capitoline Hill, one of the seven hills of Rome, to the Piazza del Campidoglio, the Renaissance piazza, or square, that was designed by Michelangelo, an example of his art which you don't have to wait in line to view.  

Note:  These steps are very wide and there are many of them.  If walking up steps is not your preference you can always approach the Forum street side, by walking around to the back of what students call the, 'Wedding Cake' monument, the Vittorio Emanuele II.

Equestrian Statue of Marcus Aurelius

 Make sure to take notice of the bronze Equestrian Statue of Marcus Aurelius, the only bronze equestrian to have survived since antiquity when all others were melted down for weapons.  This statue survived as it was thought to depict Constantine the first Christian Emperor.  

The Cordonata Steps

Below the city streets in the Forum

To best understand how the city looked in its original splendor, imagine the Emerald City of Oz, in Wizard of Oz.  The columns, arches and buildings that you see today are sand colored, but they would have been finished with red, green, and white Turkish and African marble from the great Roman empire.  

Make sure to take notice of how high above you the modern day street level is when you are in the Forum.  It is a good way to visualize the physical progress of the city, as it has been built upon itself for centuries.

My Grandma and I taking a break in the shade of the Forum

To best suit the Leisurely Traveler: As always arrive early.  Entrance to the Forum is free, but it closes at four o'clock in the afternoon. 

Also, this is a lovely way to approach the Colosseum.  It looms in the background as you meander your way through the Forum.  Although a tour through the Colosseum can be interesting, if you are on a budget you may choose to skip it.  I found it to be hard to hear/understand the tour guide and the beauty of the Colosseum lies in its exterior.

Below I've provided some links to study up on the Forum, which I recommend as there is not always a guide available for hire:

Note: The title, 'The Forum' refers to the Roman Forum, a marketplace for shopping.  There are many other Forums clustered in the site, most notably, the Forum of Julius Caesar and of Caesar Augustus. 

• History for kids, an easy read: http://www.historyforkids.org/learn/romans/architecture/forum.htm 
• Ancient Rome: http://ancient-rome.tripod.com/romanforum/roman_forum.htm
• Wiki Page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roman_Forum
• A 3-D map of the Forum: http://dlib.etc.ucla.edu/projects/Forum

Tips and Warnings for Booking Flights Online

Have you ever tried getting airline tickets at the hight of the travel season?  It is stressful and expensive.  Everyday you wait, you watch the prices go up and the good flights (you know, the ones that don't put you on a layover in every country from here to Japan before dropping you off at, say, London).


Well, I have spent about 80 hours a week trying to coordinate six people, three from Philly and three from Detroit, to arrive in Florence in late June.  This particular booking, more than any other, has taught me a thing or two.
Below, are my tips and warnings for booking flights online.


Tip #1.  Prices fluctuate daily according to peak web traffic hours.
I consider this my most valuable new discovery.  I have tested and re-tested this theory and it has proved true almost every time.  When booking a flight through an online consolidator (such as Orbitz, Travelocity, or Priceline) if you do your bookings from 8am- 10pm they will be more expensive than if you wait to do it in the early, early morning or the dead of night.  Also, avoid the weekends entirely as prices rises up to $200 a ticket before falling back down on Monday.


Tip #2. Call the airlines directly, then call them again.
If you have the time, call the airlines directly to book your tickets.  You will be charged with a booking fee of around $30, but if you find someone who is willing to hit that computer for you, they may be able to find you cheaper tickets.  I've actually called the same airline three times in a row and usually on the third or second call, I will find someone who is willing to hunt for those cheap fares for me.  It's worth a try.  


Tip #3.  Delta has a very user friendly, and well priced site.
Most airlines will quote you more a more expensive flight than the consolidators will.  However, I did actually find cheaper prices on Delta's site.  It is very easy to use as well and you can feel safe when giving them your information.


Tip #4.  When flying to Europe, booking a flight to London and taking a European airline to your final destination can be cheaper.
I have flown from Italy to Spain for 28EU round trip.  I am not kidding.  There are some very cheap inter-European flights available.  Try EasyJet or Ryan Air.
For the Leisurely Traveler: This may not be the best idea for someone who values convenience and comfort over price.  Typically, these airlines fly into cities which can be hours away from the countries' main airports.  


Tip #5. Try flying in to a different city.
We are renting a vacation villa in Tuscany.  However, tickets were about $250 a piece cheaper to fly to Rome.  We were renting a van there anyway, so we decided to fly into Rome and take the three hour drive to Florence.  


Warning #1.  Stick with the big guys.
I was searching for a particular flight.  It was available, but only for a very expensive price.  I tried Orbitz, who said they had it in my price range, went through the booking process, only to be told it was no longer available.  But they told me.  Instantly.  


I looked at another online consolidator, one I had never heard of before and found the same flight at a good price.  I booked it.  They took my credit card information and said it was mine.  I walked away from my computer happy and worry-free.  Every hour, prices were rising and flights were disappearing and now I could rest knowing I had my ticket.  
The next day, I checked my e-mail.  Sorry, it read, we couldn't get you your ticket after all.  How about taking this much more expensive ticket with two layovers which will have your arrival time at five hours later in the day?  
I called the company, left a message, called back and couldn't understand the operator's accent, then I called back a third time and a man yelled at me and told me I didn't know how to read.  A nightmare.  
So, the lesson I learned here is- stick with the companies you know.  I booked with Expedia, paid $100 extra for a direct flight, and will get in two hours ahead of my grandparents so I can help them with their luggage and have the rental car waiting for our drive to Florence.


Warning #2 Get People's Names.
NOTE: This is a rant.  This is just a rant.  If this were an actual emergency- I would have thrown my computer at the wall.
I can't find my grandparents a ticket to Rome for less than $1300.  I need three tickets for their party and, with an Aunt who has CP and two seniors, I can't have them flying halfway around the country stopping in every airport.  
We decided to use their Frequent Flier Miles to offset the price, yet needed a particular credit card to do so.  The operator told us she would absolutely get the cards to them within three business days.  Seven days later, they have still not arrived and prices are rising.  Unfortunately, we did not get the operator's name, so the credit card company is unwilling to take any action to help us.  We, "just have to wait".  I have never been so angered and frustrated in my life. 


On that note, I have to go and call my grandpa and see if the cards came.  Wish us luck!

Rome: Avoiding pickpockets

The Colosseum

A favorite site and a hot spot for pickpockets

Avoiding Pickpockets.

Most instances of pickpocketing could have been avoided by following a few simple rules about how you manage your personal space and belongings.  The pickpockets are professionals and they are very good at what they do, but there are simple ways to prevent them from doing it to you.

• Hold your purses and bags correctly.  One of the major methods of pickpocketing is executed with the use of a razor blade to slice open the bottom of a purse.  In the short time this occurs, the woman wearing the purse is clutching it protectively  and she won't know what hit her until she realizes her wallet's been stolen.  Make sure the zipper is closed and near your body.  Remember to hold your purse over the side and at the bottom.
• Do not carry lots of cash or valuables with you.  This should be common sense, but most people who get pick-pocketed loose hundreds of dollars at once.  Debit and check cards are excepted all over the city; 20 to 50 Eu is usually enough to carry on you for any purchases you may need to make in cash.
• Wear your cash, cards, and valuables on your body.  Pockets and purses are not the best place for these items.  Here is a great site where you can purchase many clever travel pouches, designed to hide and keep your belongings safe: Changes in Latitude Travel Store. 
• Latch on to your bags and cameras.  Don't let your items hang loose, someone may just run by and grab them.  Make sure you have its strap wrapped around your wrist.    

      A funny story: (Do not attempts to repeat the actions in this story).  My friend's grandmother (a very petite woman) was riding on the subway while visiting in Rome when a man, who pegged her as an easy target, ran up and grabbed her camera.  Fortunately, she had the wrist strap secured and instead of making off with the camera, she smacked him across the face and told him he should be ashamed.  The man scurried away, empty handed and embarrassed.


Below is another good link for more advice on avoiding the pickpockets in Rome:
http://www.msadventuresinitaly.com/blog/2007/07/09/how-to-avoid-a-pickpocket/

Rome: Don't fall for the scams.

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Statue in the Piazza del Popolo (the People's Square), 

where you will find both amazing art and architecture, 

as well as Street Peddlers and Beggars

Don't fall for the scams.   

Taxi Scams.

• Switching the Rate. 
• 
  
  
  
  • When you get in a cab, the taxi driver should make sure the number on the meter should be number one.  If the driver puts it on number two, then he is charging you the highway rate which is much more expensive.  Just point it out to him and make him change it or get out of the cab.
• 
  

• Bellow are some very thorough and informative sites which will help you avoid the various taxi scams.

www.threemillennia.com/taxi.htm:

http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/rome_transportation/taxis.htm

Fontana di Trevi 

a hot spot for Street Peddlers

Street Peddler Scams.  There are many people in Rome who will try to sell you things on the street.  They can be very intimidating and pushy.  Below are some helpful hints for avoiding their pursuits.                                                                                                  
               Never, never, never pay their asking price. Decide what you are willing to spend and pay no more for it than that- you may have to walk away to get them to come down to your price.  For example, when it rains they sell umbrellas.  I have gotten one for as low as one euro.  I almost fainted when my dad told me how much he paid for his.                                                                                                                                                                                                      Don't be afraid to ignore them and walk away, they will stop following you shortly.  On their terms, a conversation is as good as a sale.

The Humble Beggar from Photo.net

by Eric Pilgrim 

The Street Beggars.  The street begging in Rome is so distinctly different for what you see in the U.S. that it can be a tourist attraction in itself, and you may feel compelled to hand out your money. But before you do, make sure you are informed about how they work.  Below is some information about Rome's street beggars.

• The old, sick woman.  In Rome, the beggars are usually children or women and they do not beg for money the way you are used to in America.   Here, hooded women will assume a statuesque position of deference, bowing with her head down and hands held out.  Many times, her outstretched hands will be shaking, as if she is on her last legs.  Just know, that I have seen these women on what can best be described as a lunch break.  They hike up the hems of their long shrouds, gather together in an active huddle, give their money to a head man- eat, gossip and laugh- and then return to sit prostrate, on the verge of death's door, and ask for your urgent charity.
• The sleeping child.  Some of these robed women will appeal to your sense of giving by sitting on the streets with their babies, or children.  Remember, a two year old child does not sleep soundly for three hours while his mother is begging because he is starving. Unfortunately, some of the money you give to that mother will go to Children's Nyquil.
• The Children Who Beg.  This is a hard one, because a child is a child.  However, if two or more swarm you for money, watch your bags- they may be getting it whether you decide to give it or not.  On the other hand, I usually gave money if I saw a child playing some instrument brilliantly, and escorted by a parent or guardian.  Some of those kids are really very talented and polite.  How can you resist?

A funny story:  Trastevere is one very interesting section of Rome, with small meandering streets and a very active evening and night-life scene.  One evening, I went there one night to meet a few friends for dinner.  As we walked through the narrow streets, we heard the hip hop song, "Who Let the Dogs Out?" blasting from somewhere within the maze of Trastevere.  

We followed the noise only to find an stout, elderly woman wearing the standard shrouds of a street beggar.  But instead of assuming the usual, face-down and bowing position, she stood tall with a gaping and checkered smile, dancing up a storm next to a huge boom box playing the rap song on full blast at her feet.  Not only did I give her money, but so did everybody else.  

Below are some other helpful links on how to best avoid Street Beggar Scams:

The Inside Catholic- http://insidecatholic.com/Joomla/index.php?option=com_myblog&show=A-quick-guide-to-beggars-in-Rome.html&Itemid=127