Thursday, January 6, 2011

Vianden, Luxembourg




Luxembourg in general, is a spot in which many American tourists have yet to discover. This doesn't mean that there isn't an influx of starry-eyed travelers driving, biking and hiking their way through the many, and vastly varied, landscapes this country has to offer. Yet for me, a leisurely American tourist, as we drove our way through Luxembourg's tapestry of scenic fields to its craggy, forested mountain switchbacks, I felt as though I had discovered a secret.


As we made our way through the brick and stone towns in the Belgium Ardennes to the country of Luxembourg, the scenery changed noticeably. Almost instantly, the windy country roads gave way to petite villages, with pastel-stuccoed villas typical of Tuscany, that lined the roads in clusters of a mere dozen or so houses. Yet unlike Tuscany, it seems there is no restriction on pallet. Here, the residences of Luxembourg color outside the lines, painting their homes beyond the pale oranges, yellows and pinks of Italy, with enchanting blues and rustic reds, and even olives.




Vianden, our first stop, is a prime example of the cleanliness, friendliness and charming beauty Luxembourg has to offer- all wrapped into an encasing beneath its glowing turreted castle. Fog seems to wrap itself around the town that sits comfortably down by a bold river, but the streets and aesthetics, as in all of this country, are impeccably clean. Like Italy, the old-world villages (not the least of which is Vianden) are decorated with flowering window boxes, potted plants, and manicured vines.


Luxembourg is pristine, as evidence not only from its freshly painted villas and spotless streets, but also from the many lichens and moss (a well known sign of good air quality) that layer the trees, boulders and many ruins. Whether driving through the almost untouched forests or walking over the polished cobbles of Vianden's streets, Luxembourg is decidedly refreshing.



Beyond the many hiking, biking, canoeing, and climbing excursions that are a major draw for the many Dutch and German tourists, Vianden, Luxembourg, offers a delish retreat for the French, who are used to people watching from outdoor cafe terraces, or shopping. Either way (and including for this American), you are sure to be understood. The people of Luxembourg are friendly, accommodating and intelligent, and they easily met these visitors on our terms




I am calling Luxembourg the new 'It' retreat. With castles ('chateaus')and ruins like Scotland, scenic views like Switzerland, pastry shops like France, and villas like Italy, you cannot go wrong.

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

The Ardennes


















Saturday, January 1, 2011

A Christmas Wonderland in The Medieval Town of Bruges

The Venice of the North

We started our tour of Belgium, the Netherlands, and Luxembourg with Bruges, possibly one of the most charming cities I have been to in all of Europe. A three hour drive from Amsterdam, this destination is not to be missed. Here, in a town preserved in its medieval casing, you can wander the canal-filled streets, eat mussels and drink Belgium beer in time-worn pubs, shop on cobblestone streets, and seek out history in Bruges' numerous museums and churches. 







Bruges At Night

The winter months bring out the character in Bruges. Less tourists (a frustration in the busy summer months) and early evenings, allow for picturesque night scenes during the darkest time of the year. You can feel the town's history as you amble along the well illuminated canals, peeking into frosted pub windows glowing with fireplace flames, and streets lit with iron lanterns that hang from timeworn buildings.





Christmas Time in Bruges

Garlands galore, lights swaging over winding streets, and Christmas markets in every square fill the city with a warm and festive ambiance. Better still, more horses and buggies than cars, and more churches than convenience stores, the streets are filled with the clip-clopping of hooves
 and the ringing bells. 







Medieval Shops of Chocolate, Lace, Food and Beer 

 Bruges' historical significance as a merchant power has reinvented itself in the form of tasteful tourism. Trendy boutiques, tea rooms, and modern bars fit in historical casings make for great shopping. The entire town is a preserved medieval treasure, forgotten after its seaport receded and declined, then rediscovered, untouched, in the twentieth century by what have become throngs of tourists. This storybook-sized town is overflowing, most famously, with prettily packaged chocolate delicacies
 and fine lace work.






Belgian Beer Best Enjoyed by the Fire

Medieval pubs on the market square in Brugges make a cozy winter spot to enjoy any one of Belgium's 700 beers. Fireplaces lit and beams exposed, the pubs and their extensive beer lists, some of them boasting the label, 'Authentic Trappist Product' provide the perfect winter atmosphere.





The Beguinage

The Beguinage were women, spinsters or widows, who chose a life devoted to God and lives of poverty and fidelity, but who wanted to remain independent. So, they built themselves city cloisters in the center of town, which you can visit today, and walk among the trees in their 13th century urban sanctuary, or explore any of one of the adjacent gardens and canal paths.










Peeking Around Every Corner






A New Year's Delight From de la Symphonie Mécanique


After drinks, amble through the canal lined cobblestone streets until the medieval city opens up into a square where the city of Bruges puts on monthly spectacles. For example, the famous and inventive de la Symphonie Mécanique played for Brugge's New Year's celebration. Huge rusting pipes, like those that form the skeleton of bagpipes, blew fire into the air while numerous other very Tim Burton-esque machines played a cacophonous symphony of dynamic and vibrant music. These dramatic surprises are what I love most about nights in Europe.